Did you know…?
Where Freshwater pearls come from…
Freshwater pearls are simply pearls formed by freshwater mussels rather than saltwater oysters. Both mollusks produce pearls in a similar way: an irritant (the proverbial "grain of sand") enters a mollusk's shell and cannot be expelled. The mollusk then coats the intruder with the same secretion it uses for shell production, a hard, smooth substance called nacre. Over time, more layers of nacre build up and the pearl grows in size. The nacre will become thicker the longer it is left to grow, adding to the pearl's luster, durability and value.
Nowadays wild or natural pearls are very hard to find. Most pearls on the market are cultured or farmed whether from saltwater oysters or freshwater mussels. Typically, cultured saltwater pearls have had a small round piece of mother-of-pearl inserted into the shell to initiate growth of a nice, round pearl. Cultured freshwater pearls, however, are often non-nucleated; that is, the insertion is just a piece of tissue, not a sizable object. This means that many freshwater pearls are composed entirely of nacre and offer fabulous color and luster, albeit in an off-round shape.
In the 1930s, commercial production of freshwater pearls started in Lake Biwa, near Kyoto, Japan. These all-nacre pearls offered excellent luster and color unseen in many cultured saltwater pearls. Production in Lake Biwa has since declined (although the name “Biwa” is still used indiscriminately) and most freshwater pearl production is taking place in China. The quality and variety of Chinese productions has improved greatly over the years and prices remain markedly low.
Since the 1990s, China has been breaking the boundaries of pearl production, introducing new shapes, colors and culturing methods with quality rivaling the original Biwa pearl or the round Japanese Akoya pearl. Farmers are inserting unusual nucleus material into mussels creating great shapes; improving upon color-enhancement methods like bleaching, dyeing and radiation; even faceting pearls! The end result is an ever-growing selection of pearls for new designs and beading inspiration!
Ask Us!
Q. What exactly is a "crystal"?
A. When customers ask, “Do you have crystals?” we have to narrow down the question more specifically because they could be asking for a number of different things. They could be looking for Quartz Crystal gemstones or they could be looking for Swarovski crystal beads. They might want sun-catcher crystals for their window or maybe just faceted beads that look and sparkle like crystal. Obviously, the term “crystal” is used for a lot of things. The American Heritage Dictionary has six definitions for the word, with references to molecular structure, visual clarity, and semiconductor qualities. Let's keep it simple and talk just about the crystals you might find in the bead world! First let's distinguish between rock crystal and glass. Rock crystal, or Clear Quartz, often grows in a shape commonly called a “crystal point.” This is the crystal that you might see used for “crystal healing” or in the hands of stone enthusiasts. Quartz is often carved into objects (like spheres), it is made into jewelry and is certainly cut into beads as well. A faceted piece of quartz crystal will not throw prisms of light. Glass crystal, such as Swarovski crystal, is actually a leaded glass, not a true crystal. Technically, the term “crystal” should not be applied to any glass products because they don't have a crystalline structure. However, after hundreds of years of using the term commercially, it is now a common part of our vocabulary. The addition of lead to glass increases its density and its refractive index. The result is a harder, clearer, and more light-refractive glass. When faceted, this leaded glass is the type that will throw prisms of light like a sun-catcher. The Austrian manufacturing company Swarovski is not the only group making leaded crystal, although they are the most famous. Crystal components are made in the Czech Republic, in China, in Italy and elsewhere. What sets Swarovski apart is the amount of lead added to their glass and the quality of their cutting. Less expensive products contain less lead and result in a less prismatic display, softer edges on the facets, and are more prone to scratching and dulling on those edges. Swarovski components are also incredibly diverse and extensive and offer the largest and brightest line in the crystal bead business.
Have a question for us? drop it in the mail to: Ask Us!, Mana Beads, 423 Broad St. Nevada City, CA 95959 or email it to newsletter@manabeads.com
How To…
Use Crimp ends on leather cording.
In order to attach a clasp to leather cording, you need some finding that will create a secure loop at the end of the cord. There are several findings that accomplish this task but here we will talk about the crimp end. It is simply a tube with a loop at one end. Slide your cording into the “tube” and crimp, or squish, the center section of the tube to hold the cord in place. Attach a clasp to the loop on the end. Another crimp end will go on the opposite end of the cording. Often the clasp can connect directly into this second crimp end.
TIP #1: Be sure to crimp the center section of the tube in a way that your pliers are parallel to the loop. If you squish that section with the loop at a perpendicular position, you will break the crimp end and your clasp will fall off.
TIP #2: Take note of the interior diameter (I.D.) of the crimp end. It should be just slightly larger than the diameter of your cord. If it’s too big, the crimp might not hold. If it’s too small, then the cording will obviously not fit into the tube.
TIP #3: If your necklace will be worn with care, you can opt for a crimp end with a hook to act as your clasp. This is not as safe as something like a lobster clasp but it is attractive and saves money.
Want to see it demonstrated? Come in anytime and we’ll show you how! |
